18 July 1818-August 1818: Tramping in the Highlands
Inveraray, Scotland
Mid-July: Keats (aged 22) and his good (perhaps closest) friend Charles Brown are about three weeks into a walking tour that starts in northern England.* His plan is to make the trip four months long, but health issues curtail the excursion considerably. Nonetheless, Keats and Brown cover more than 600 miles on foot. Keats is back in London and Hampstead by 18 August.
Brown, in a letter of July to a mutual friend, notes that Keats’s initial reaction
to
Scotland and the Scottish is to abuse both—Keats, being a bit nasty, in one of his
comments
claims Scottish women have large splay feet.
Here we might keep in mind two points;
first, that English tourism into Scotland was at the time quite common; and second,
given the
politics of the day, that English tourism into Scotland necessarily carried with it
something
close to what might be called cultural condescension—the gaze of the colonizer upon
the
colonized. This was not altogether lost upon Brown and Keats, who at moments are very
aware
that they are seen as the outsiders—this, despite Brown’s Scottish ancestry, with
part of
Brown’s motivation for the trip to search out just a little of that ancestry.
The trip begins 25 June in the Lake District. The landscape impacts Keats in exceptional and unique ways—compounded and complicated by William Wordsworth’s association with the area. By the afternoon of 1 July, Brown and Keats are in Scotland, where, the same day, they make it to Dumfries in order to visit the fairly elaborate tomb (mausoleum) of Scotland’s most famous poet, Robert Burns, built in 1817, just over twenty years after the poet’s death.
Keats and Brown then trek east. Keats is struck
by the poverty at least as much as by natural and historical elements. A short detour
takes
them into northern Ireland as far as Belfast, where the poverty is even more pronounced.
Returning to Scotland, they head northeast to Ayr, Burns’s birthplace. Keats imagines
finding
a desolated area, but he is unexpectedly struck by the natural beauty. Nevertheless,
Keats
finds it difficult to throw off feelings about Burns’s misery—his dead weight,
Keats
calls it (13 July, to Reynolds). Keats mainly
mulls over the discordant elements of Burns’s life and his poetry, but Burns also
turns him to
darker thoughts of his own mortality and poetic strivings. What is the meaning of
poetic fame?
What is the legacy of Burns?
Keats and Brown pass through Glasgow on the
13-14th, which Keats records as a fine city, though they are stared at, and Keats
is accosted
by a drunk (letters, 13 July, to Tom Keats). By Inveraray, Brown suffers from foot
blisters
and Keats from the horrors
of the bagpipe (18, 20 July, to Tom). At times, they even
have to sleep in their clothes on dirt in smoke-ridden huts (letters, 23 July). A
minor
highpoint: on the 24th they visit ruins on the island Iona and the grave where Macbeth
and
other Scottish kings are buried.
But it is in a letter to his friend Benjamin
Bailey on 18 July that Keats, with a sane and sober Mind,
reveals something
about himself and his motivations. He confesses his tendency to carry all matters to an
extreme
and with little self possession,
which tells us something about the
tensions of empathy and intensity that will manifest in some of his poetry. Keats
also
attempts to describe his anxieties about being in the company of women: When among Men I have no evil thoughts [and
am . . .] free from all suspicion and comfortable. When I am among Women I have evil
thoughts . . .
. Marriage for Keats is, it seems, not viable: besides his love of
solitude and freedom, as well as his attraction to socializing with like-minded men,
he
wonders if marriage might compromise his poetic aspirations.
In this letter, Keats also writes about the intended larger purpose of his walking
expedition: I should not have consented to myself these four Months tramping in the
highlands but that I thought it would give me more experience, rub off more Prejudice,
use
me to more hardship, identify finer scenes, load me with grander Mountains, and strengthen
more my reach in poetry, than would stopping at home among Books . . .
. In short, Keats
has a purpose: increase experience, decrease prejudice, toughen up, and load up with
grander
imagery—all in the name of expanding poetic potential, more so than just studying
and reading.
But Keats implies that the trip, thus far, though hardening him, has not yet met his
goals. He
admits that even the solemn
power of mountains is wearing away.
What will weigh
more heavily, perhaps, is more the accumulative experience rather than the particulars
of the
wearying trip that is cut short by health issues. Keats remains a poet in search of
both
poetic material and poetical identity.
Later in the month, Keats’s chronic sore throat will return. Having at times to sleep in their clothes on the damp, dirty floors of fairly primitive huts will not help. He is also becoming homesick.
*[See here for interactive, annotated map with a time line: Keats’s Northern Walking Tour with Charles Brown.]